Winged Liner and Red Lips

Makeup: Winged Eyeliner with Red Lips/ Ombre and Glitter Lips

This weeks fashion makeup lesson topic was on how to complete the classic winged liner and red lip look with lashes. We also expanded with the lips by creating an ombre lip and glitter lips. This enables us to change different elements of the look (in our case the lips) and use new materials to change their appearance.

We normally start the lesson with a demo on how to do the look so today Branka selected a model and got to work. To give us a bit more product knowledge Branka used products that were not in our kit. This also showed us different components of the products like coverage, consistency and tone.She started by cleansing the models face with a cleansing water and then applying some oil to the skin to hydrate it ready for makeup application. The Urban Decay Naked foundation was then used on the models skin for the base. This foundation has a demi finish which means it is between matte and dewy, It also doesn't have to be set with powder. It is medium coverage but can be built up to be heavier. As the model has good skin not a lot of product is necessary so the foundation is applied with a brush to the center of the face and buffed outwards. A bronzing liquid is applied to the ares of the face where the sun would naturally hit. This is usually the forehead, chin, nose and cheeks. To highlight a Top shop highlighter was used called Gleam Soft Bronze. This cream highlighter was applied to the cupids bow, along the center of the nose, brow bone and the top of the cheekbones.

As the under eye area required a bit more attention to cancel out any dark tones a Urban Decay Skin Concealer is applied. Branka used the neutral toned ones in Light, Medium and a tiny bit of Dark. This is applied under the eyes with a concealer brush and set with a translucent powder. A powder bronzer is used again over the areas where the sun would hit. This is used just to warm up the skin tone as the liquid bronzer works as an illuminizer.
Moving on to the eyes now, Branka starts off by applying a base of Brule by MAC over the eye lid. MAC Cork is used lightly to define the crease. Powder is taken through the brows to fill on any gaps and brow gel is used to keep the hairs in place. For the winged liner Branka gave us the option of using Kryolan Aqua Color or MAC Black Track. For the demo Branka used Aqua Color as she wanted to show us that we can use a face paint for winged liner. As we are practicing and some of us are new to applying winged liner this seemed like the best option as any mistakes will be easy to create. To apply the winged liner Branka dipped the brush in water and got some black Aqua Color on a brush she then applied it to the back of her hand. The models brow was lifted to ensure product gets into the root of the lashes and a line was stroked along the upper lash line from the middle outwards with a thin brush. The model was then made to look to the lower left to stretch the skin on the inner corner of the eye and the line was then connected so it was the whole length of the eye. Now its time for a wing at the outer corner so gently lifting the brow, Branka guided to tip of her brush towards the edge of the brow. This creates a wing and it can then be thickened up if necessary.
Mascara was then added to the lashes using a fan brush. This method is helpful as it leaves less clumps in the mascara as normal mascara brushes.
A classic red lip was created for this look. To start the lip Branka used MACs Ruby Woo Lip Liner to outline to cupids bow and the edge of the bottom lip by using small strokes. This gives a guideline of the lip shape so its easier to fill in. It is also helpful if the model closes their eyes as this relaxes them. Starting with small strokes for the outer corners inwards the lip is then completely filled in with Liner once the outline is finished.

For lipstick Branka used a new product from her kit which was a liquid lipstick in red. She applied this to the lips with a lip brush by starting form the center of the lips and working her way outwards. The lips were then outlined with concealer about half a shade lighter than the skin tone to emphasize the lipstick and lip shape. The lips were now complete.
False eyelashes were applied using duo eyelash glue. The glue was applied to the back of the hand and then the lash band was stroked over the glue as to coat it ready for application. When the glue is tacky they are applied to the eye and using fingers a light pressure is applied on the lashes to make sure they are stuck down well.The false lashes were then joined with the models natural lashes by lightly applying mascara. A gold highlighter is used to highlight the inner corner of the eye and the cupids bow.
Here is the final outcome of the demo:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Rebecca

There was a slight twist to this classic look as we then got taught how to do an ombre effect on the lips. A MAC black pencil liner was added to the outline of the lips working from the outside inwards. Using the lip brush which was used to add the red lipstick earlier, the black outline is then blended using the existing product on the brush. The black liner is then retouched on the outline of the lips in a thin line and then softened with a brush to intensify the colour. 

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Rebecca

To further add to this look we are then taught how to apply glitter to the lips. Two types of glitter was used on the lips; a large red glitter and a small red glitter. This was to demonstrate the different appearance of both especially when the glitter hits the light. Vaseline is dabbed on the lips to give the glitter something to adhere to. Using a ring finger which was dampened with MAC Fix Plus this was dabbed in the small red glitter and then added to the centre of the lips. Any fall out can be fixed by either using tape to blot over the area or a spoolie can be used to gently brush off the glitter. The large red glitter can now be added on top of the existing glitter. Vaseline can be used on the lips again before the glitter is applied. A flat brush which was sprayed with MAC Fix Plus was used to pat on the large red glitter to the lips. 

Small red glitter:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Rebecca

Large red glitter:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Rebecca

Products: 

Urban Decay Naked Foundation

Urban Decay Bronzing Liquid

Topshop Gleam Soft Bronze Highlighter

Urban Decay Skin Concealer

MAC 'Shadester' Bronzer

Kryolan Translucent Powder

MAC 'Brule' Eye Shadow

MAC 'Cork' Eye Shadow

MAC Brow Gel

Kryolan Aqua Color in Black

Mascara

False Lashes

MAC 'Ruby Woo' Lip Liner

MAC 'Ruby Woo' Lipstick

MAC Gold Highlight 

Large Red Glitter

Small Red Glitter

Vaseline

MAC Black Eye Pencil Liner

MAC Fix Plus

We then got the opportunity to try out the look ourselves. 

I cleansed my models skin with a cleansing water and then moisturized the face using a foundation brush to spread the product on the skin. This also softens my brush so it is easier to buff the foundation in later and not have visible brush strokes. I then used MAC Face and body for the base as I wanted the skin to be dewy and clean. As Face and Body is lightweight and doesn't appear heavy or thick on the skin, I thought this would be the best choice of product. After the foundation was applied I then used my Kryolan Derma Color Palette to conceal any areas I felt needed more coverage. As my Model had clear skin I only used this under the eyes to cover up any darkness there. To do this I mixed up her concealer shade and then mixed a bit of D32 from the Palette as this will counteract any dark tones there. Then powdered the skin with Kryolan Translucent Powder and also powdered the concealer under the eyes to set it. I used MAC 'Shadester' Bronzer on where the sun would usually touch the face. 

For the eyes I used Mac Brule Eye Shadow as the base colour. This was applied all over the lid all the way to the brow bone. MAC Eye Shadow in Cork was dusted through the crease to make the socket line more prominent. I then filled in any gaps in the brow with a powder which matched their natural skin to and an angled brush. Brow gel was then sweeped through them to ensure the hairs stayed in place. We were given the option to use either MAC Black Track Gel Liner or Kryolan Black Aqua Color for the winged liner. I chose the Black Aqua Color as if I made a mistake then it will be easier to correct than a gel liner. Branka used a thin brush to apply the liner but as I didn't have the same brush I used a small angled brush. I wet the Aqua Color and got some of the product on my brush. I then started applying it carefully to the upper lash line starting for the middle outwards till I had a thin line from the middle to the outer edge. I then got my model to look at her bottom left so I could apply the liner to the inner corner. This helps stretch the skin on the eye and makes it easier to apply liner ensuring you get right into the lash line. I then created the wing by getting the model to close her eye or look down and I then made a small line going towards the edge of her brow. I thickened this up slightly and joint it to the rest of the liner making it one fluid line. I kept my liner quite thin as my main focus was on matching both sides so they were equal. I followed the same process on the other eye and luckily they matched quite well.

I was aware that my time was running out so I didn't put on lashes and just added mascara. As I am fairly confident with applying lashes I didn't feel this was a major problem but I am disappointed I didn't get time as I would have liked too complete the whole look. 

I then went onto the lips. I used Ruby Woo by MAC to line the lips and filled them in. I then matched the lipstick to the lip liner and painted the lips with Ruby Woo Lipstick by MAC. 

As I ran out of time I didn't get to complete the glitter lips or ombre. This is how the Winged Liner and Red Lip look turned out:

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Aimee

Products

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Kryolan Translucent Powder

Derma Colour Concealer Palette

MAC 'Shadester' Bronzer

MAC 'Brule' Eye Shadow

MAC 'Cork' Eye Shadow

Mascara

Kryolan Translucent Powder

MAC Brow Gel

Kryolan Aqua Color in Black

MAC Ruby Woo Lip Liner

MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick

Evaluation

What Went Well: I really love this classic look and was glad we got taught about it. I felt nervous at first as winged liner can be tricky to master but I think I managed to match each side. I also think that the base came out very clean which was what I was hoping for. The lips were a challenge as getting the lip shape even is something I can sometimes struggle with. This is one of the elements that I take more time with but I'm glad with how they turned out as the lip line was neater than I expected.

What I Could Improve on: I am very disappointed that I didn't get to apply the lashes, ombre lip and glitter. Although I had a further practice at home to make sure I got to have a go at applying the whole look. I also believe I could have done the liner thicker and more prominent as it is quite thin. my model had small eyes so I didn't want to overwhelm them with too much liner and make them appear smaller and I also wanted the liner to match on both sides. I still believe I could have done better with the liner though. 

A further practice on the whole look left me feeling more confident. 

I tried the look on myself but used the same method and products as I did before. 

Here is how it turned out:

Winged Liner and Red Lips
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

The winged liner was a bit thicker this time as I wanted to be bolder than my first practice. I also had a slight product change as I used MAC Black Track this time instead of Black Aqua Color as I wanted to try out different products for the winged liner to see the difference. I would use Black Track on a client as it is more reliable in terms of staying powder than a face paint. Black Track also has a thicker consistency and a more pigmented appearance. I also added lashes as this is one of the steps I had to skip in the original practice. I used duo eyelash glue to adhere them to my upper lash line. 

Winged Liner using MAC Black Track
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

The lips were lined and painted with the same products as before. Starting by lining the cupids bow and the bottom edge of the lips I then used small strokes from the outside inwards to line the rest of the lips. I then filled all of the lips in with the pencil and then added the lipstick on top for a more intense colour. 

Classic Red Lip using Ruby Woo liner and lipstick
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Now I got to try the ombre effect. I used a MAC Black Eye Pencil to line the outline of my lips and also shaded the outside edges of my lips. I then took the brush with which I previously applied the Ruby Woo lipstick and blended the harsh lines. I went in with the MAC Black Eye Pencil again and touched up the lip line and proceed to blend with the brush. 

Here is my final result:

Ombre Red Lip
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

I loved doing the ombre effect on the lips as I think the black gives the lips so much more depth. However I do believe that you have to be careful not to over blend the black so that its pretty much non existent. Also if the black is blended too far in it can make the whole lip look one shade which is not what we want when doing an ombre lip. If I felt I blended too far in I would lightly blot the area and add a but more of the Ruby Woo Lipstick to the area and blend it with the black.

I also used glitter on the lips as I didn't get the opportunity before. I used a medium red glitter for this. I added Vaseline to the lips and pressed a finger into some decanted glitter. I then dabbed the glitter on the center of my lips. I used the tap technique to eliminate any fallout. 

Red Glitter Lips
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Products

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Kryolan Translucent Powder

Derma Colour Concealer Palette

MAC 'Shadester' Bronzer

MAC 'Brule' Eye Shadow

MAC 'Cork' Eye Shadow

Mascara

Kryolan Translucent Powder

MAC Brow Gel

MAC Black Track Gel Liner

MAC Ruby Woo Lip Liner

MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick

Vaseline

Medium Red Glitter

MAC Black Eyeliner Pencil

Lashes

Evaluation 

What Went Well: I'm glad I got the chance to try everything out that I was shown in the original demo with Branka. I enjoyed using the glitter as the difference in the way the lips catch the light is so much more exaggerated. I also liked using Mac Black Track Gel Liner for the winged liner as it was nice to work with a different consistency and as I did the makeup on me I could test its staying power. The eye makeup lasted all day and the liner didn't smudge so I found that reassuring for use in the future on clients. 

What I could Improve on: I still believe the liner is something I should keep practicing. For me that element of this look is the most problematic. I still feel a bit uneasy with trying to match both sides and although i'm happy with how they both turned out I am still not entirely comfortable with it. I think I will try to practice this on different peoples eye shape until I feel more confident as it is a skill which can be difficult to master.