Creative Eyeliner and Lips

Makeup: Creative Liner and Lips

Our topic for today's fashion makeup lesson was creative eyeliner and lips. We were told to create any liner design as long as it was using black products and the lips had to have a sharp cupids bow and also be black. Our lecturer Branka started the lesson off with a demo.

As the focus of the makeup was the eyes and lips, Branka chose a model who already had a clean base of foundation on. As the base required no attention she got started with the eyes straight away.

Using Screenface black cake liner dampened by MAC Fix Plus she built up product on her brush. Using Fix Plus ensures the product lasts longer. Cake liner can be activated by different liquids not just water. She lifted the brow and with a fine liner brush began to paint a line on the upper lash line starting from the center of the eye and sweeping towards the outer edge with a medium thickness. The inner corner was the lined and joined to the liner in the middle of the lash line. The outer edge was then winged out. A line was created from above the crease following the liner below and joining it at the tip of the wing. The liner was then mattified with MAC black eye shadow in 'Carbon'. An angled brush can be used to dab this product over the liner to take down any shine. Liner was then applied under the lower lash line using the same liner and brush. Starting in the center the brush was dragged outwards creating a line underneath the eye and winged liner. Below the inner corner was also lined and joined in the middle. A flick was added branching off of the lower outer corner line going upwards between the wing and line underneath. The inner corner was also lined with a sharp edge and flicked on the inner lower lash line.

For lips Branka used a MAC Black Pencil Liner to line the bottom lip so as to use this as a guideline.
MAC Black Track Gel Liner was used to line the upper lip as she wanted a sharp edge and this product can be used on an angled brush to create the sharp lines she required. This was used on the top lip as this is where more shape was needed and supra color has more movement so would be easier to smudge. Black Track sets fast so would stay in place and it is slightly thicker in consistency which helps when creating angles as the brush will slip less on the lip line.The top lip was then filled in with Black Track once the sharp cupids bow and outline of the lip were created with the use of an angled brush. Black Kryolan Supracolor was used on the bottom lip as this has more movement so is more suitable when filling in the lip. Vaseline was then used on the lips to add shine and the remaining product was used as a highlight on the cheekbones.
This was the outcome:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Heather

Products

Screenface Black Cake Liner

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Carbon'

MAC Black Track Gel Liner

MAC Fix Plus

Kryolan Supracolor in Black

Vaseline

MAC Black Eye Pencil

It was then my turn to create my own version of this look. I started off by applying the base. I used MAC Face and Body Foundation as I wanted the base to look light as the eye makeup would be heavy so it should balance the makeup out. Using the Kryolan Derma Color Palette I mixed up a concealer shade to cancel out any darkness under the eyes and conceal any areas which extra coverage is needed. I then set the foundation and concealer with Kryolan Translucent powder.

I then filled in the brows with a powder which was the same as their natural colour. I then sweeped MAC Brow Gel through them so the hairs stay in place. It was now time to move on to the eyes. I used Kryolan Aqua Color for the liner as it is easier to correct any mistakes. Black Track Gel Liner sets quite quickly too and as I was making up the design as I was going along I didn't want something that set so fast just in case I needed to change any detail. I started off by loading up some Black Aqua Colour on a small angled brush as I didn't have a brush fine enough for liner. This worked out as the angled liner brush made it easier for me to create straight lines. I painted a thin line on the upper lash line starting from the center outward towards the outer corner of the eye. I then lined the inner corner and joined it up with the liner in the middle. I then winged out the liner on the outer corner of the eye. I lined the lower lash line and also joined this up with the wing on the outer corner. However I didn't line all the way up to the inner corner on the lower lash line, I lined about 3 quarters. I then went slightly above the crease and drew a curved line following the line I had created on the upper lash line. Also winging the outer edge out but instead of joining the two wings to create one big wing I had a clear line in the middle between them. This created a double wing effect. MAC 'Carbon' Eye Shadow was used on a tiny smudger brush to blend colour on the upper winged line. This made the line more soft at the edges. I applied mascara to the upper and lower lashes with a fan brush.

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe

Products

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Kryolan Derma Color Palette

Kryolan Translucent Powder

MAC Eye Shadow 'Brun'

MAC Eye Shadow 'Carbon'

MAC Eye Shadow 'Omega'

MAC Brow Gel

Mascara

Kryolan Aqua Color Palette

I ran out of time before I could create the black lips with the sharp cupids bow so I had a practice at home. I used the MAC Black Pencil Line to line my bottom lip starting from the center and making small strokes towards the corners of my lip. I then took MAC Black Track Gel Liner on a flat straight cut brush and used this to create a sharp cupids bow. I made small lines outlining where each point will go and continued to outline the rest of my top lip with the same brush. I then took the Kryolan supra color palette and used the Black to fill in my lips. This is my outcome:

Black Lips
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Products

MAC Black Pencil Liner

Kryolan Black Supra Color Grease Paint

MAC Black Track Gel Liner

Product comparisons

When creating black lips or creative liner for the eyes there are a number of products to choose from. Selecting the right product for the purpose of the makeup is important as they are responsible for how the final image comes out. I swatched a few of the products from my makeup kit which I had to choose between when creating creative liner and bold black lips. When comparing these products I weighed out a couple of factors such as; consistency, pigment and durability. For the liner on the eyes I chose Kryolan Aqua Color. I thought this was the best option considering I hadn't planned the makeup so therefore was more at risk of making mistakes or corrections to my design. I know that Aqua Color is easily removed with water so the clean up would be quick and easy although this can also create problems as when the product is wet it can move. As it is applied around the eye area it is possible that the product could smudge if worn for a long amount of time. As I knew that this eye makeup doesn't need to be on the skin all afternoon I took the risk of using it for the creative liner. Black Track was one other option I considered however I know that Black Track can set quite quickly and is harder to clean off the skin. It consistency is thicker which can be helpful as its harder to lose control when painting the product onto the skin but if it dries out it may cause dragging on the skin. One of the things I admire about this product is its ability to last for a substantial amount of time as it is smudge proof therefore I used it to line the top lip. This also helped me create a bold lip line with the help of a flat edged brush. I didn't use the MAC Eye Liner Pencil on the eye as it wasn't needed along with the Aqua Color. However I did use it to line and fill in the bottom lip. This will stop any bleeding of product on the lip line. As the colour isn't as dark as other products I used Kryolan Black Supracolor Grease Paint on top to further deepen the black. This product has more movement so was perfect for application on the lips as it acted like a glossy lipstick. I didn't use this product on the eyes as it doesn't dry matte and could transfer on the eyelids or smudge. The Kryolan Liquid Eyeliner wasn't a product I used on the eye liner because I felt it has quite a runny consistency whereas I can thicken Aqua Color by limiting the amount of water I add to it. The good thing about Kryolan Liquid Liner is that the colour appears darker than the other liner options. After testing each product I am confident I made the right choice with what I used for the makeup I created today although if I was to do it again I might experiment with other options to compare the outcome.

Product Comparisons
Photographed by Chelsey Pavey

Evaluation

Creative Eyeliner was quite an intimidating topic as I could tell it was going to be a challenge. Selecting the right products was also a bit tricky as I had a lot of choice. Nevertheless I am still happy with how the makeup application turned out.

What Went Well: I didn't really plan what design I was going to do with the liner on the eyes so I am surprised that I like the outcome in the end. I found applying the eyeliner easier than I thought and considering I was nervous that I wouldn't match up both sides equally I think I did a pretty good job. I found the lips turned out well but I do think I could perhaps have made the lines on the cupids bow more prominent. 

What I could Improve on: Once again my timing has let me down as I didn't get a chance to complete the black lips on my model. I am however glad that I got to practice that part of the makeup at home as I still had to think about what products to use and what tools I can used to create the harsh lines I needed. I also think the colour could be more intense for the liner on the eyes. As I was unsure of what liner I was going to create for the makeup I used Aqua Color which is easier to remove if I made mistakes but is not as black as the Kryolan Liquid Liner.