Today in our fashion makeup session we got to get creative with face charts. We had a run through of how to complete one as a group with our lecturer Branka.
She started off by taking a blank face chart and using MAC 'Brule' to contour the face with a flat eye shadow brush. Slowly pressing the product into the paper in circular motions 'Brule' was applied on the edges of the forehead, along the sides of the nose, under the cheekbone area and along the jawline. More depth was added by taking 'Cork' by MAC and this was applied where 'Brule' was applied. Eyebrows are then added to the face chart. These can be created by either applying a dark eye shadow onto the paper with a small brush in the shape of the brows you want to create or by taking a pen and drawing with fine strokes the shape you desire. Small strokes should be added either way as these create realistic looking hair-like lines.
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| Face Chart by Branka Vorkapic |
The eye makeup was applied to the lid and crease area with a small flat eye shadow brush. If the brush is too round it can be hard to press the powder into the paper so that's why flat brushes tend to be used more for the powder application. A burgundy shade is added to the eye area and black was added closer to the lid so to create a smokey effect. This is blended out and lashes are added by creating 'C' shapes on the lash line with a black fine liner.
For the lips water colour paints or Kryolan Aqua Color can be used. By adding water to a thin brush and dipping it in the paint of the colour required, small brush strokes are made on the lips focusing the colour on where the shadows would be. Wetting the brush slightly can help when blending the colour on the lips. This weakens the colour in certain areas which helps to show the highlight where the light is hitting the lips which make them more 3D. The edges of the lips can be darkened with a deeper shade of the same colour in order to exaggerate this. Branka used red and burgundy on the lips from her Aqua Color Palette to achieve this.
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| Face Chart by Branka Vorkapic |
Hair is also added to the image using Aqua Color as well. Using brush strokes in a colour of your choice, hair is added to the face chart making it more realistic. Branka painted the hair loose and flowing in a brunette colour. Fine lines can also be added to the hair or the contours of the face to create a more artistic sketchy appearance.
Here is the finished face chart:
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| Face Chart by Branka Vorkapic |
Tools and Products
Face Chart
Pencil
Eraser (to erase mistakes made with eye shadow or to highlight areas of the face)
Kryolan Aqua Color or Water Colours
MAC Eye Shadow Palette
Black Fine Liner Pen
Makeup Brushes
Pen
I completed a face chart at home to further get some practice with what I learnt in my fashion makeup lesson.
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| Before Plain Face Chart |
I took a plain face chart and started shading the contours of the face with the Eye Shadow shade 'Brule'. I used a flat eye shadow brush and in circular motions and began to blend the colour around the forehead, cheekbones, jawline and sides of the nose. I then deepened this contour by adding the shade 'Cork' from my MAC Eye Shadow Palette. I then added eye brows to the face chart by using small hair like strokes with a Black Fine liner. The eye makeup was then added. I started off by blending the 'Sketch' Shadow into the outer lid area. I then added 'Amber Lights' on the inner lid and 'Goldmine' to the inner corner blending them together with a small flat brush. I then added 'Brun' to the crease and blended this upwards. To further darken the crease I added 'Carbon' but I didn't blend this as far upwards as I did with 'Brun'. I also added a tiny bit of 'Carbon' on the outer half of the lower lash line. Once I felt happy with the eye shadow I then proceeded to add lashes with a black fine liner. I used MAC 'Tenderling' blush on the cheeks to add some colour to the face.
I decided I wanted light brown/amber eyes so I used a eye shadow on a cotton bud to add colour to one side of the iris and blend it through with the clean side of the cotton bud to spread out the colour. This gave it a fading effect. I also like to add a bit of shading with a fine liner around the edge of the darker side of the iris to further darken it and make the eyes more 3D.
Lips were the next step on the face chart. I decided I wanted to use a deep purple on the lips to make this more of a night time look. I used my Kryolan Aqua Color Palette to mix up a dark purple by using a medium purple shade and a tiny bit of black. I then used a small thin brush which was wet, in the colour and painted it on the lips focusing most of the colour on the edges. I then wet the brush again to remove excess product and blended the existing colour on the paper into the center of the lips to create a 3D effect.
I moved on to the hair and matched the colour with the eyebrow colour by using black. I used a medium flat edged brush to create bigger brush strokes and made each stroke wavy to give the hair shape. I also added a side parting to complete my image. A highlight was added to the side of the hair above the parting using white Aqua Colour to give the appearance of light shining on the hair.
Here is my completed face chart:
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| After Face Chart Completed by: Chelsey Pavey |
Products and Tools
Face Chart
Kryolan Aqua Colour Palette
Black Fine Liner Pen
Cotton Buds
Mac Eye Shadow Palette
MAC 'Tenderling' Blush
Makeup Brushes/ Paint Brushes
Evaluation
What Went Well: I really enjoy making face charts as it feels very therapeutic. I also like seeing the difference between the before and after photos as it makes me realize how much of a difference I have made just by adding my makeup design.
What I could Improve on: Sometimes I think getting the symmetry right on face charts can be a challenge. Also making sure the shading and highlights are in he same place for different elements of the face. For example if the lighting is supposedly coming from one direction then the highlight shouldn't be on the opposite side of the face. I did the highlight on the lips slightly wrong as I have created the rest of the face according to the light coming from the right of the image. So my highlight should have been less centered and more to the right on the lips. I think this is something I should keep in mind when creating face charts in the future.
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