Monday 30 November 2015

Burberry LFW AW/14

Catwalk Shows: Burberry London Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 14

The Burberry Autumn/Winter 14 catwalk for London Fashion Week featured hand painted materials which show off the artistic flair of the collection. The hand painted patterns reminded me of tribal designs and it had a very bohemian loose look to it. The collection featured different coats and loose jackets which were fitted at the waist.The dresses were airy and light also featuring the swirling water colour designs. The pieces reflected the autumnal season by using various shades the colours green, blue and brown. The style of this catwalk was inspired by the a group of artists named as the Bloomsbury group. This group is made up of writers, philosophers, artists and critics. Sheer scarfs were layered over outfits to further complete the look and these were paired with open toed brown sandals and painted leather bags. The makeup and hair is a lot more neutral to let the individuality of the clothes shine through with this catwalk. Thin brown or beige leather belts also accompanied the waist which gave the flowing dresses and jackets shape.  




London Fashion Week AW14: Burberry paints the changing of the seasons
Model: Edie Campbell
Photographer: Tim P Whitby




The Hair 


The hair in this catwalk was designed by Neil Moodie. The theme for the hair was a bed head look. The hair stylists styled the hair to look and feel as if the models have just woken up. Detangling spray and oils were used to give the hair a natural looking shine. The parting was slightly off center and a hairdryer diffuser was used to create a soft texture in the hair. A texture spray was then spritzed throughout the hair to matte some of the shine and make it look clean and slightly fluffy. 

For my take on the hair we are allowed a bit of freedom to change the look up slightly if there isn't much difficulty to the hair style. As the hair is very natural I am going to set it with Carmen rollers just to add a wave to the hair. As the models don't seem to have a huge amount of volume in the hair I will purposely drag the rollers slightly to make the hair flatter instead of lifting the hair at the root. I will start by giving the hair a slightly off from the middle parting and then begin to put in rollers at the front of the hair. I will set the front section downwards in a column set on both sides and then brick set the back. Once the hair is cool I then take out the rollers and smooth serum through the hair to give it shine. 



Tools

Hair grips
Hair clips
Heat spray
Carmen Rollers
Tail comb
Denman brush

Makeup by Wendy Rowe
Model: Ola Rudnicka

Makeup

The makeup for this catwalk had a very light airy feel and was created by Wendy Rowe. The base was clean and fresh looking with a slight flush of pink on cheeks. The eyelids were tinted a cool toned purple with what seemed like a white pencil liner on the waterline to further brighten up the eyes. The lips were natural or nude but with very little shine. The eyebrows were quite full but this depends on how full the models eyebrows are naturally. Ola Rudnicka has very light brows therefore they wasn't filled in whereas Cara Delevingne has a much darker fuller brow. 

I chose to do this catwalk for my fashion makeup and hair assessment as I feel this look would really suit my model. I did a workshop session before my assessment on the makeup and trouble-shooted which products I think would work to recreate it. As I may not have what was used on the day I used my kit and adapted products so the finish appeared to resemble the catwalk look.  


MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe
I started off by using a micellar water on the skin to cleanse it and remove any makeup. I then used a foundation brush to buff some moisturizer into the skin. As the skin on the catwalk appears to be light and dewy I used a liquid foundation to replicate this. MAC Face and Body Foundation was applied to the skin and I used Kryolan Derma Colour Palette for concealer under the eyes. I then set the concealer with Kryolan Translucent powder. The eyebrows are quite full so I filled them in using a mixture of 'Brun' and 'Omega' MAC Eye Shadow. I then used MACs Brow Gel through the brows to set the hairs in place.  

The eyes were my next focus. For the Burberry look the eyes are a barely there purple wash of colour. As I didn't have purple in my kit I improvised by using my MAC Eye Shadows in 'Brule' and  'Cranberry'. This created the shade I needed. With a large fluffy brush I dusted this on the eye lid and smoked it out into the crease. I built the colour up as I went till I was happy with the colour. I also took it 3/4 into the lower lash line and added a white eye pencil to the waterline. This really opened up the eyes as the shadow on the lower lash line extenuates the white eyeliner on the waterline. Mascara was then brushed on the lashes with a fan brush. 

I then created the lip colour. The lips on the backstage photos look very nude and some even had a slight pink tone to them. As the colour slightly differentiates between each model I decided to make mine a light pinkish nude. I mixed the MAC Lipsticks 'Twig', 'Pretty Please' and 'Love Lorn' and applied this to the lips. As the lipstick in the photo doesn't seem to add much shine I didn't add gloss and used a tissue to blot the lips to mattify them. I then dusted a bit of MAC 'Tenderling' Blush on the apples of the cheeks. I used Kryolan Translucent Powder on the skin last as this helps the foundation to settle into the skin before it is set and also helps to buff in the blush colour on the cheeks and tone it down if necessary. 


Products 

MAC Face and Body Foundation
Kryolan Derma Colour Palette
MAC 'Brun' Eye Shadow
MAC 'Omega' Eye Shadow
MAC 'Cranberry' Eye Shadow
MAC Lipstick in 'Twig'
MAC Lipstick in 'Pretty Please'
MAC Lipstick in 'Love Lorn'
Kryolan White Eye Pencil
MAC 'Tenderling' Blush
Mascara
MAC Brow Gel
Kryolan Translucent Powder

Evaluation 

What Went Well: I really enjoyed having to adapt my products to recreate this catwalk look. I found it a little hard to figure out what to do for the eye makeup as I didn't have the same shade of purple as they have in the image but once I spoke to Branka she encouraged me to play around with a few shades in my palette and I quickly understood how to fix this problem. I think my model really did suit this look as I made sure I picked the catwalk makeup and hair based around my model and I think this one would look great on her. I think by the end of the makeup she really did resemble a Burberry model and I was pleased with the outcome. 

What I could Improve on: I found it hard to be so light with the product especially as this look is barely there and I am used to creating quite fierce looks in my fashion makeup lessons. Knowing when to stop adding product is definitely a skill to master as it is possible to over do it. I think when I do the makeup again I may have to add a bit more colour on the eyes just so it can be picked up on the camera but other than that I am happy with the makeup and feel ready for my assessment. I didn't get time in my fashion makeup lesson to practice the hair which I am slightly gutted about but as the hair isn't overly complicated I am sure it should be fine. 

Makeup and Hair by: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe




Final Assessment Evaluation


What Went Well: I was really happy with how my hair and makeup turned out for my assessment as I felt my model really did resemble one of the girls from a Burberry catwalk. The makeup was clean and I adapted the intensity of certain colours to suit my clients natural skin tone. I felt this helped the makeup compliment her. The white liner on the waterline really made the rest of the eye makeup stand out. The hair was set in rollers but dragged slightly as I didn't want tight curls. The result was loose waves with an of center parting. I am really happy with the hair as although it isn't what they did backstage on the Burberry catwalk, I feel I have created my own version of the look which really worked well with the makeup. 


What I Could Improve On:  The hair went well but it wasn't without fault. When dressing the hair out I left the back of the hair to fall naturally but it left a slightly unsightly look on the crown. When speaking to Emma (my lecturer) she suggested I backcomb the hair over to cover any gaps in the hair. This made the hair have more of a solid shape which looked much better. When speaking to my lecturer about what I could improve on with the makeup, Branka suggested maybe adding a bit of highlighter to the nose as some of the pictures show a bit more of a glow in that area. This is something I should have picked up on when looking at the image and I will be sure to think of small details like this in future projects.


Hair by Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe


References

Gloss, G. (2015). Best beauty trends from London Fashion Week AW14. [online] Getthegloss.com. Available at: http://www.getthegloss.com/gallery/best-beauty-trends-from-london-fashion-week-aw14#slide-15 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2015].

Metro.co.uk, A. (2014). London Fashion Week AW14: Burberry paints the changing of the seasons. [online] Metro. Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2014/02/17/london-fashion-week-aw14-burberry-paints-the-changing-seasons-in-swirling-watercolours-4307081/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2015].

Vogue UK, (2015). Burberry Prorsum Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/burberry-prorsum [Accessed 4 Dec. 2015].

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