Contouring

Makeup: Contouring

In this session we were taught about highlighting and shading. The two different types we learnt about were very different. One was more dewy and natural looking, This seemed to be more suitable for fashion and editorial work. The other was glamour which seemed heavier but more current with private clients.

Each look used slightly different techniques and stages. The first look in the demo was the dewy look which was demonstrated on the right side of the models face.

Look #1

First of all the skin was prepped with a cleansing water, argan facial oil and moisturizer. The lips are also in need of hydration so a lip balm or cream is applied.

Derma colour is then used to conceal the under eye area, any redness or any veins which may be very visible. A peach shade from the Morag Ross Palette is also added to the under eyes in order to cancel out any blue/purplish tones.

MAC Face and Body Foundation was then mixed to the models skin tone and buffed into the skin.
The Kryolan Supracolor Palette was then used to create the contour shade. Colours such as yellow, red brown, pink, grey and beige were mixed together to make a tone which fits the natural shading of the face. If the contour shade is too warm it can make the face look like it has been bronzed rather than contoured. Shading was then added along the jawline, under the cheekbones and on the temples. using a smaller brush the same colour was then added to the eye socket and on the side of the nose. This will create depth and make any shaded areas recede whereas highlighting will make areas more prominent.

The highlight was then added. To create the right tone my lecturer Branka took the base colour and added lighter grease paints/Derma colours and mixed them with a white from the Kryolan Supracolor Palette. The highlight was then added down the center of the nose and chin, top of the cheekbone, cupids bow, side of the forehead, brow bone and above brows. I took a photo just before the highlighting and shading was blended so the areas in which the products were applied is visible.

MUA; Branka Vorkapic
Model: Brittany

The highlight should be blended first with small strokes as you don't want to buff it away completely. MAC Strobe cream is patted over the highlighted areas.

The eyebrows were then brushed through and lightly filled in with Derma colour.

Here was the outcome of Brankas demo:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model; Brittany

Once blended the look is a lot more subtle than I expected. The grey tones in the contour shade really made the face look as if it is naturally that sculpted.

Look #2

Once this side of the face was complete we then got taught how to do the classic glam contour technique. This particular look is very popular among clients for a heavy evening look as it is advertised a lot on social media with celebrities such as Kim Kardashian. To start the makeup Branka mixed up a highlight shade using MAC Full Coverage Foundation and as the models skin was very fair she used the white colour from the Kryolan Supracolor palette. Once the colours were mixed and she was satisfied with the shade she then applied this to the brow bone, center of the nose, chin, above the brow, on the cheekbone, the cupids bow and in between the jawline and the cheekbone.

With this look three shades are used; A highlight, a medium tone and a darker contour shade.  The next colour to be mixed was the medium shade. This is mixed by using the MAC Full Coverage and the Kryolan Supracolor Palette. This is applied to the jaw, cheeks and forehead. The dark shade is now mixed using the base colour with brown and grey tones added. This is added to the jawline, side of the nose, under the cheekbones, sides of the temple and the socket line of the eye. The tones were blended together to create a flawless base. The under eyes were then concealed using the Derma Colour Palette. MAC Strobe was patted into the highlighted areas of the skin.  Kryolan Translucent Powder was then used to set the makeup in place. The MAC Shadowy Powder was mixed with the MAC Emphasize powder to make it less dark and then was brushed along the areas where the dark shade was added. MAC emphasize powder was dusted on the top of the cheekbones and MAC Dollymix blush was placed on the apples of the cheeks and blended. Rose water is then spritzed on the face to give a dewy finish.

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Brittany

As you can see this look was heavier and a lot more noticeable. I preferred the more dewy fashion version as I feel overall this appeared cleaner on the skin as the makeup isn't as obvious and it makes the model look more naturally flawless.

Products:

Derma Colour Palette

Morag Ross Palette

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Kryolan Supracolor Palette

MAC Strobe

MAC Full Coverage Foundation

Kryolan Translucent Powder

MAC Pro Lip Palette

Rose Water

We were then asked to recreate the dewy fashion contour look on each other using the techniques we saw in the demo. I cleansed my models skin using Micellar water by Simple and moisturized the face. Using my Derma Colour Palette I mixed a concealer colour which I applied to the under eye areas and used to conceal any redness. After speaking to Branka we decided I should pat  more red/peachy tone from the Morag Ross Palette under the eye and blend it into the existing product there. When I did this I saw a noticeable difference, the darkness around the eyes seemed more concealed and neutralized. I then followed the same steps from the demo. I began running out of time just after I blended the contouring and highlighting so I swapped with my partner. We had a bit of extra time at the end of the lesson so I managed to add the MAC Strobe to the cheekbones, cupids bow, center of the nose and forehead. Here is how my recreation turned out:

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe

Products:

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Derma Colour Palette

Kryolan Supracolor Palette 

MAC Strobe

Morag Ross Palette

Evaluation 

Overall I am pleased with how the makeup turned out. Considering it isn't quite finished as I didn't get to add the blush I do feel that the main elements of the base were completed. My most challenging part of this look was actually the colour matching. I found it hard to mix the contouring shade and the highlight shade. Although I feel in the end I managed to get a good match. I think if my application speeds were faster this could have looked even better and I would have been able to finish the whole look. I also know I need to work on the speed at which I colour match. Although I think a lot of the problems I have faced I can overcome after I have more practice. I feel I could also improve on the concealer shade as I had to go back and correct the original colour but now I have learnt my mistake I think I will remember to neutralize the colour in future. This lesson was very fun and I enjoyed learning the difference between the two versions of contouring and the techniques behind them. 

     

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Chloe