 |
| Colour Chart |
Colour is the visual shade or hue of an object.
Colour theory is usually shown in charts like the colour wheel. Colours on the opposite side of the wheel are contrasting colours. Primary colours are yellow, blue and red. Secondary colours are formed by mixing primary colours. E.g. yellow mixed with red will make orange. Tertiary colours are colours which are formed by mixing a primary and secondary colour. Colours like blue-green or red-violet.
The skin also has warm or cool tones. Warm tones tend to have more yellow or red undertones whereas cool tones have more blue. Warmer tones are complimented using colours such as red, orange or warm browns, golds. Cooler tones tend to be complimented by silvers, purples, blues and green. Neutral shades such as brown, black, white, cream or beige can be worn on any skin tone.
When two complimentary colours are mixed it will produce a grey colour. Colour theory can also be used when applying a base for a skin tone or corrective concealer to an area.
Hues are more intense colours. For instance two primary colours mixed together will result in a hue. You would then adjust this colour to the shade you want by adding black or white. Tints are formed when you add white to a hue. E.G. If you have a pure orange then you can add white to make it more pastel. You can make a colour deeper by using black to a colour. This is called a shade.
Monochromatic colours are all the colours of the same hue. Analogous colours are groups of three colours next to each other on the colour wheel, such as; yellow-green, yellow and yellow-orange.
For our practical makeup lesson on this subject we had to create a full face of makeup using just our grease palette. This enables us to mix colours such as red, blue and yellow to match an undertone in the skin.
Our lecturer Branka gave us a demo first. Starting with the foundation she used colours such as; beige, red, brown, blue, yellow,white and mango. I'm glad a variety of colours were used as it allowed me to realize that I am not to be afraid to use many different colours and to go with what looks right. Once the right foundation shade was mixed and applied to the skin then next step was concealer. The red/ burgundy shade was mixed with a mango tone to make a peach shade which would then counteract any darkness under the eyes. This was buffed in to the base and the skin was then lightly set with translucent powder.
Grey, brown, red and a tiny bit of the base colour was then mixed for the contour shade. This was applied to the side of the nose, temple, cheekbones and jawline. The highlight was made by using the base colour with white greasepaint added to it. This was then applied to the tops of the cheekbones, brow bone, center of the nose and chin, cupids bow and above the brow. Once blended the face was then dusted with powder to set the makeup. Brown and beige were then mixed and blended through the socket line. Dark brown grease paint was smudged on the upper and lower lash lines. Black was also added to the outer upper lash line to make the lashes appear more full. This was all set with powder in order to keep the makeup in place and avoid creasing. The eyebrows were then filled with a mixture of grey, brown and beige which matched the models natural brow colour. This was also set. On the cheeks, blush was buffed into the skin using red, burgundy yellow and mango to create a peachy shade. The final touches was a burgundy greasepaint on the lips and mascara added to the lashes.
This is the final look from Brankas demo:
Products:
Our lecturer Branka gave us a demo first. Starting with the foundation she used colours such as; beige, red, brown, blue, yellow,white and mango. I'm glad a variety of colours were used as it allowed me to realize that I am not to be afraid to use many different colours and to go with what looks right. Once the right foundation shade was mixed and applied to the skin then next step was concealer. The red/ burgundy shade was mixed with a mango tone to make a peach shade which would then counteract any darkness under the eyes. This was buffed in to the base and the skin was then lightly set with translucent powder.
Grey, brown, red and a tiny bit of the base colour was then mixed for the contour shade. This was applied to the side of the nose, temple, cheekbones and jawline. The highlight was made by using the base colour with white greasepaint added to it. This was then applied to the tops of the cheekbones, brow bone, center of the nose and chin, cupids bow and above the brow. Once blended the face was then dusted with powder to set the makeup. Brown and beige were then mixed and blended through the socket line. Dark brown grease paint was smudged on the upper and lower lash lines. Black was also added to the outer upper lash line to make the lashes appear more full. This was all set with powder in order to keep the makeup in place and avoid creasing. The eyebrows were then filled with a mixture of grey, brown and beige which matched the models natural brow colour. This was also set. On the cheeks, blush was buffed into the skin using red, burgundy yellow and mango to create a peachy shade. The final touches was a burgundy greasepaint on the lips and mascara added to the lashes.
This is the final look from Brankas demo:
 |
| MUA: Branka Vorkapic Model: Heather |
Products:
Kryolan Greasepaint Palette
MAC Setting Powder
Mascara
We then split off and tried it out for ourselves. My model was quite pale skinned so I used blue, white, beige, mango and a tiny bit of red to mix the foundation colour. For concealer I would usually use D32 from the Derma colour palette but as we were just using the grease palette I mixed some of the red and bugandy to the mango shade to make a peachy pink tone and then applied this to the undereye area. I buffed the concealer into the base and then set it with powder. The contour shade was mixed using the base, brown and grey and I then applied it to the same areas of the face as Branka did. I then got my highlight shade by taking the base colour and white greasepaint and again applying this to the center of the nose and chin, cheekbones, cupids bow, brow bone and above brow. I didn't want to go too dark with the highlighting and shading as I knew the purpose of this look was to get the colour matching right. I then blended and powdered the face with translucent powder.
 |
| MUA: Chelsey Pavey Model: Aimee |
For the eyes I mixed a red brown, brown and beige and put this through the crease of the eye and blended. I then blended a dark brown on the upper and lower lash line. I also lightly blended black into the outer upper lash line. Using a fluffy brush I then set the eyes with translucent powder.
The eyebrows were filled in using a tiny bit of grey,brown and beige. They were also set with powder to ensure the makeup will not smudge. For the blush I used red,mango and a tiny bit of burgundy. Once this was blended I then focused on adding colour on the lips, to do this I added burgundy and red. I think applied mascara through the lashes with a fan brush. Here is my final outcome:
 |
| MUA: Chelsey Pavey Model: Aimee |
Products
Kryolan Grease palette
Kryolan Translucent Powder
Mascara
Evaluation
I was really happy with how my version of this makeup turned out. I was quite nervous at first as I wasn't sure whether I was going to get the colour tone right but I managed and I am proud of the final foundation shade I mixed. The hardest thing about this look for me was knowing what colours to mix as when mixing a regular foundation, most of the shades you can hold up to the skin and notice which would match the skins undertones. When mixing grease paints which are colours such as blue, red, yellow it can be slightly intimidating as you are not sure whether the colour will match but I just went with my instinct and luckily it turned out well.
I was shocked at how a full face of makeup was achievable from just using a greasepaint palette. It was interesting to find out what colours are used in creating a skin tone and I enjoyed being able to play around with so many different ones.
I found this exercise comforting as now I know I can create a full face of makeup with only one palette and I am confident to do so. As someone who was nervous before this lesson I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge. I personally believe I could have gone in a bit heavier with the highlighting and shading but at the time I didn't want to distract the look and make it all about contouring. Overall I am happy with my work and I want to practice this more on other skin tones to better my understanding of colour theory.
No comments:
Post a Comment