Textured makeup using Glitter

Bleached Brows and Glitter Makeup

Makeup: Bleached Brows and Glitter Makeup

I missed my lessons on glitter makeup and bleached brows as I had an appointment so I combined the two lessons together for one look which covers both. For this lesson I don't have notes for the demo as I wasn't there and apparently my classmates didn't have notes either. I spoke to people who were in the lesson and learned that they took a lot of inspiration from Pat McGrath. I recently bought Lan Nguyen Grealis's Book 'Art and Makeup' and decided to take inspiration from there instead. I liked how colourful her images were and how she used different textures and techniques to give her work character.

For the lesson most of the images I saw were mainly focused on the eyes, which is where the glitter and detail were. After looking through Lan's book I really wanted to take it a step further and let my imagination take over.

Bleached brows - 

The technique I will use today is useful for getting the bleached brows effect without actually having to bleach them. Using the Derma Color Palette I mixed D7, D2 and D3 to make a dirty blonde tone and with a spoolie I combed this through the brow hairs till I was happy with the coverage. 

This is the outcome of the bleached brow - 

Bleached Brows by Chelsey Pavey

I then began with the rest of the makeup. I used MAC's Full Coverage Foundation for the base and set this with translucent powder. Urban Decay Primer Potion was applied to the lid and set with the eye shadow 'Thirteen' which is a pale base tone from the Urban Decay Smoky Palette. I then used cello tape under the lower lash line extending towards the temples and used another patterned tape above this which went from the socket line to the temples. I took the Urban Decay Spectrum Palette and used the shadow 'Flat line' in the inner corner and blended this upwards and onto the inner lid. I then used the Ruby Hammer Pink Pigment on the lid and blended this up to the patterned tape. Then blended this in the inner corner and slightly down the bridge of the nose. 

The 'Blue Sky' Pigment from Supercover was then pressed on top of the tape and blended up the temples to the forehead along the hairline. Purple Pigment from Ruby Hammer was blended over the tape to the crease and blended into the blue. 'Flat line' was added along the brow bone. I then took 'Black Market' from the Urban Decay Smoky Palette and blended this on the upper lash line and the lower lash line but only going 3/4 of the way inwards. A black eye pencil was added to the waterline. 'Flat line' was buffed into the edges of the blue on the temples and was used to mark out the curves lines on the forehead. The purple pigment was added along the hairline and the pink pigment was used to create the heart shape on the forehead and blended back into the purple of the hairline. 

Hairspray was combed through the hair to slick it back. I then used white hairspray all over the front of the hair for a base. Pink hair spray was sprayed in the middle section of the hair and purple was sprayed on either side of this. Blue was added to the edges on each side to finish off the hair. 

Vaseline was applied everywhere the pigments were applied. Using the same finger I applied the Vaseline with I dabbed this in to the Helen E White Glitter and pressed this onto the middle of the heart shape on the forehead and along the tape on the eye. The Barry M White Glitter was then applied to the edges of the curved lines and on the temples. Both Glitters were dusted in the hair. I then removed all the tape to reveal my pattern. I made the pattern bolder by using the Kryolan Cream Liner in 'Snow' to fill it in. The White Greasepaint from the Kryolan Supracolor Palette was then taken on a spoolie and combed through the upper and lower lashes. The Blue Sky Pigment was then added in a line under the black of the lower lash line. The eyes were now complete. 

Glitter Makeup by Chelsey Pavey

I had to touch up the foundation as the cello tape left a mark in the base as the foundation stuck to it when I pulled it off. This was powdered to set it and I used the Light Purple Highlight shade from the Revolution 'Sugar and Spice' Palette on the cheekbones. The Pink Pigment was added for a contour shade under the cheekbones and further depth was added with the Purple Pigment. The lips were kept fairly light with the MAC 'Pretty Please' Lipstick and I dabbed 'Show Orchid' in the inner bottom lip and focused it more in the center. 

I wanted to extend this look onto the neck so I used the Kryolan White Aquacolor all over the neck and ears. Once dry I took a fluffy brush and loaded it with the Blue Pigment and flicked it on the skin. I repeated this process with the Purple and Pink Pigments, and the Light Purple Highlight from the Revolution Palette. The Barry M White Glitter was then dusted on my neck to complete the look.

Colourful Glitter Makeup by Chelsey Pavey

Colourful Flicked Pigments on the neck
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Eye Detail with Pigments and Glitter
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Products 

Blue Hair Spray 

Hair Spray 

Pink Hair Spray 

Purple Hair Spray 

White Hair Spray 

Derma Color Palette

Kryolan Supracolor Palette

Ruby Hammer Pink Pigment

Ruby Hammer Purple Pigment

Supercover 'Blue Sky' Pigment 

Barry M White Glitter

Helen E White Glitter

Black Eye Pencil

Urban Decay Primer Potion

Urban Decay Spectrum Palette

Urban Decay Smoky Palette

Kryolan Aqua Color Palette

Kryolan Cream Liner in 'Snow'

MAC Full Coverage Foundation

Revolution 'Sugar and Spice' Palette

Translucent Powder

Vaseline

MAC Lipstick in 'Show Orchid' 

MAC Lipstick in 'Pretty Please' 

Makeup Detail and Bleached Brows
MUA: Chelsey Pavey

Evaluation 

What Went Well: Considering I didn't have a plan of what I was going to do so I was really pleased with how this look turned out. I'm glad I decided to take this look further than just the eyes and I liked the effect of putting products on the neck and hair too. I'm really happy I decided to look through Lan's book for inspiration as I think I would have kept this a lot more tame but seeing how she puts together her work by incorporating the hair and body I got carried away. I like the broad use of products with this look too as it combines a lot of different brands together which I love to do as it enables me to see which products work well together. I liked the effect of the bleached brows as I didn't want them to be the main focus with this look o the pairing of these two lessons worked well.

What I Could Improve On: Although this look was made for practice with glitter, I don't think it is very visible in photos. This could be due to it being White and it only changes colour when it reflects in the light so it can be harder to capture in photographs. The lipstick could have been freshly applied for the photos too as the colours aren't as bold as they could be. I wish I made the hair wavy at the bottom to give it a bit of texture but as I didn't expect to go this far with the look I didn't take it in to consideration. The patterned tape was definitely effective but it didn't come out as clear as I would've hoped so I had to fill in the pattern with Cream Liner. I don't think it was as clean as I would have liked in the finish but I think it contrasts well with the other colours. I thought about applying a white base before the tape was applied but when the tape is removed it would still take the product underneath with it so I think the option I went for was the best. 

Makeup by Chelsey Pavey

Face Lace

Our lesson for today was creating Face Lace. For our demo our lecturer Branka covered the brows too to give it a more high fashion effect and to enhance the appearance of the design.

To start today's look, the eyebrows were to be covered. Spirit Gum was applied to a spoolie brush and combed through the brows in the opposite direction in order to coat the hairs. The hairs were then brushed to the side and flattened with a spatula. MME (Spirit gum remover) was used to clean the skin around the brows. The brows were then powdered and the shade D32 was applied on the hairs. This cancels out the dark tones of the brows. If the hairs are very dense and dark this colour can be applied twice. Powder is pressed on top and a concealer shade is mixed up to the natural skin colour and this goes on top of the D32. Powder over this and reapply. Powder once more just to finally set the makeup. 

MAC Face and Body is used for the base and set with powder. The skin is contoured using MAC 'Sculpt' powder. This is applied under the cheekbones and in the socket line of the eyes. The cheekbones and brow bones was highlighted in almost like a C shape. Mehron Black Body paint is used to create the liner and face lace design. Mascara is swept through the lashes. Blush was used to lightly colour the lips and the same colour was dabbed into the inner corner of the eye to bring the look together. Here is the final look:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Brittany

Products

Ben Nye Spirit Gum

MME Spirit Gum Remover

Translucent Powder

Kryolan Derma Color Palette

MAC Sculpt Powder

MAC Dollymix Blush

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Mehron Black Body paint

Mascara

I had a face chart planned out for this look today but didn't have much time to execute it so I made a design up on the spot. I incorporated swirls and dots into this look for my new design. I started off by covering up the brows in the same way that was shown to us in the demo. 
I also used Face and Body Foundation for the base on the skin as I felt my model didn't need heavier coverage. I set the base with powder and contoured the cheeks with MAC Sculpt Powder. I used MAC Vanilla Pigment to highlight the cheekbone as I knew this would reflect the light well. I also used his on the inner corner and on the eyelid blending up to where the brow is covered.

It was now time to create my face lace design. I started off by lining the upper lash line and winging it out. I then created a swirling line above this and added black petals by pressing the brush onto the skin sideways. I repeated these swirling lines and used the petals and dots to make the pattern look more presentable and delicate until I was happy with the design. I ran out of time to do the mascara and lips. 

Here is my final outcome: 

MUA: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Aimee

Products 

Kryolan Aqua Color in Black

MAC "Vanilla" Pigment

Kryolan Derma Color Palette

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Ben Nye Spirit Gum 

Translucent Powder 
MME (Spirit Gum Remover)
MAC Sculpt Powder

Evaluation 

What Went Well:
I am really happy with the outcome of today's session. I had a design planned but as I didn't have enough time I had to make a design up as I went along. Taking that into consideration, I am quite impressed with my ability to change the design so quickly. The brows were covered well and I was pleased with how the face lace distracted all the attention from them. As someone who loves face painting, I really enjoyed this lesson and can say that it has definitely been one of my favorites. 

What I Could Improve On:

Unfortunately I didn't have a great deal of time for this look so I didn't get to finish by applying lipstick or mascara. I felt that I could have contoured the cheeks a lot more too and used a bit more highlight so it is more noticeable in pictures. I feel like adding a bit of colour to this look might also vamp it up a bit and bring out the deign even more but overall i'm happy with the contrast of the dark pattern on the pale base. 

SS15 Photoshoot iD Magazine Cover

SS15 Trends

Moodboard showcasing the hair and makeup trends of Spring/Summer 15

The Spring/Summer Trends of 2015 featured clean bases with a flash of bold colours. Some collections used red and orange tones such as Zac Posen which featured a fresh natural base with a clean red lip. However some looks were a bit more dramatic. House of Hollands catwalk showed the model wearing a coating of silver glitter on the eyes with a black cat eye and nude lip.

The hair in this season varied slightly with each designer but many had middle partings and was left fairy natural and loose. Carefree waves were often featured on catwalks to give the appearance of a natural casual look.

Moodboard of Dolce&Gabbana Spring Summer Campaign 2015

For my final magazine cover recreation I need to reflect the SS15 trends. When going through some of my prior research I really wanted to reflect Dolce and Gabbanas SS15 campaign as I like the exotic feel to its Spanish theme. The magazine cover I would like to create is iD as they are usually very simplistic in terms of background and let the main focus be upon the model. I also like how they create a theme for each issue so one issue may have "graceful" or "youthful" on the front and I would also like to create my own theme for this shoot. To match my theme with the sultry makeup I wish to create I thought "Lust" would be fitting. Also as the cover will be created within the month of valentines day I think if it was to be a published piece of work it wouldn't be out of place.

The Spring/Summer Trends of 2015 were very neutral, with just one or two facial features highlighted with the use of a bold colour. The hair for the Dolce and Gabbana Campaign is in a middle parting and either in a bun or sleeked back. I decided to do a more glam look for the hair to compliment the makeup and the theme for my iD cover so I've chosen to curl the hair with tongs and brush them out to create soft waves. Black was also a prominent colour within this campaign so my model is wearing a black top with a black and gold necklace piece. Red roses were present in quite a lot of the images I found when researching the SS15 D&G Campaign so I have go a headband of red roses which will be placed on top of the hair as a flower crown. As iD usually cover the eye I will also get my model to use a red rose to cover the eye so it ties in with the colour theme and the 'Lust' addition of iD.

Makeup and Hair inspiration Moodboard for my Cover
Featuring the magazine, makeup and hair ideas

The makeup for the shoot will be a wine stained red lip with a soft slightly smokey eye and lightly contoured cheeks. Most of the makeup trends for SS15 remained very tame and natural aside from maybe one or two features remaining prominent.  I wanted to go in a bit heavier hence why I thought getting inspiration from the Dolce and Gabbana campaign would work.I had a practice with my model to see exactly what I would do and what products I would use on the day. I chose to make the socket line more defined and make the wing more smoky. The lips would still be red to tie in with the colour theme. I changed the hair as in the campaign the models had a middle parting whereas I wanted a side parting. They also had their hair slicked back into an up  do style but i really wanted to curl the hair to make ip even more glamorous. I also thought about cover the right eye with the hair which would require the models hair to be in a side parting. iD is famous for its covers as usually one eye is covered or winking. For my final shot I may have my model winking as this works with the sexy theme of "Lust" or I may have the voluminous wave of her hair covering her eye which will make it seductive looking.I might try out both and then pick the final shot after.

Practice Image:

Practice of makeup and hair for shoot
MUA and hairstylist: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Alex Smith

Products

MAC Face and Body Foundation

Translucent Powder

MAC Concealer Palette in Light

MAC Lip Liner in 'Plum'

MAC Lipstick in 'Hang up'

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Carbon'

MAC Vanilla Pigment

Mascara

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Cork'

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Omega'

Kryolan Supracolour Palette

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Brun'

Urban Decay Primer Potion

MAC Eye Shadow in 'Brule'

MAC Brow Gel

MAC Powders in 'Shadester' and 'Sculpt'

Makeup Revolution Highlight Powder

MAC Blush in 'Dolly Mix

MAC Black Track Gel Liner

Timings (Which were on my moodboard)

Makeup -

9:00 – 9:05 The face was cleansed and moisturized

Urban Decay primer potion was applied to the eye

Area and set with Brule eyes shadow.

9:05 – 9:08 Brun and Omega are used to fill in the brows.

Brow gel is swept through them

9:08 – 9:12 Omega and Cork are used on a fluffy brush

Through the socket line and blended.

9:12 – 9:15 Brun is used in the crease and blended and

Carbon is smoked out in a winged shape on the upper lash

line.

9:15 – 9:18 Brun is taken on the lower lash line ¾ of the

Way in and Carbon is added on the outer corner.

9:18 – 9:20 MAC Vanilla Pigment is patted on the lid

9:20 – 9:24 Black Track eye liner is painted on the upper

Lash line and mascara is added  to the lashes

9:24 – 9:30 Any fall out is cleaned and the concealer is

Applied to the under eyes and any areas which will need

Extra coverage. The Kryolan Supracolor Palette is then used

To mix up a highlight and contour shade. The contour shade

Is used on the temples, jaw line, sides on nose and under the

Cheekbones. The highlight shade is applied along the centre

Of the nose, the cheekbones, cupids bow, above brow and

Chin.

9:30 – 9:33 This is then all buffed in with MAC Face and Body

Foundation and set with translucent powder.

9:33 – 9:38 Mac Sculpt and Shadester powders are dusted to add

More depth to the cheekbones and Dolly Mix Blush is applied on

The apples of the cheeks and blended along the cheekbone.

Revolution Highlight is applied to the top of the cheekbone and

The cupids bow.

9:38 – 9:46 MAC Plum lip liner is used to outline and fill in the lips.

MAC Hand Up Lipstick is then painted on the lips. 

Health and Safety -

* All tools and products must be clean and sanitary
* Hands must be washed before the makeup application and kept clean throughout with hand sanitizer
* If a reaction occurs then the products must be removed from the skin immediately and a cold compress should be applied to the skin. If irritation doesn't go down after 4 hours then the model should medical advice from a GP.
* Make sure the chair is at the correct height to avoid repetitive strain injuries
* Ask the model if they are wearing contact lenses before the treatment and if they have any allergies
* Look for any contra-indications on the skin which could prevent or restrict the service
* Ensure the model knows to report to you if any reaction occurs during or after the makeup application
* Make sure there is no water spillages and if there is that they are cleaned up immediately
* Trailing wire must be tucked in to avoid people tripping on them

Evaluation of shoot and Presentation

On the day I completed he hair and makeup in under 2 hours. I got my model to wear black and wear a gold necklace to represent the same colours as in the campaign. I bought a rose headband to lay on top of the hair and bought some roses which I had to spray red n the day. The rose was to be held over the eye to keep in with the iD cover tradition. We experimented with different ideas such as close up shots, fingers and the hair covering the eye. The hair didn't look great in front of the eye so I went with the original rose idea. I also got my model to wink and this turned out to be one of my favorite shots. 

Final Cover for iD Magazine
MUA and Hairstylist: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Alex Smith

What Went Well:

In general the day went quite smoothly. I managed to work with the photography department in college and done my hair and makeup in one of the makeup rooms which allowed me to have a tidy set up and good lighting. I completed the makeup in under two hours which I was happy with as everything went to plan and on schedule.  I tried several different methods of covering the eye and went with the roses out of all of the other options I felt it fitted the theme better and really brought my idea to life. I was proud of my final image as I think it captured what I wanted from my cover and the white background contrasted with the white which gave it a nice effect.  I edited the iD logo, barcode and title on the front which took a little while to figure out but I love the simplicity of the cover and how everything came together for a solid idea.

What I Could Improve On:

I felt my presentation skills were not my strongest on the day. I prepared quite a detailed presentation about my process and inspiration but felt too nervous during the delivery that I missed quite a bit of detail out which I was a bit gutted about. I was also late to the lesson as I had 20 minutes prior to the lesson to print off my images due to a trip meeting over lunch. During this time I had difficulties with printing off my images in the size I needed which in turn made me even more nervous for the presentation. Although I think my overall image fits the colour theme of the Dolce & Gabbana Campaign.

In terms of the shoot day I had a couple of things which were a challenge. I had a few issues with photographers. Some didn't get back to me and one I arranged the shoot with had a complication with the date and we couldn't reschedule. This was stressful but I managed to speak to someone in the college and got to do the shoot when the other classes had their bald cap assessment so it worked out really well. The makeup was fun to do as I think it really suited my model, If I was to do it differently I think I would've made the lips slightly darker as on camera the colour appears more sheer than in real life. I would also add more volume to the hair by using backcombing at the root.


Here are some of the other images using different ways too cover the eye:

Other shots from the shoot
MUA and Hairstylist: Chelsey Pavey
Model: Alex Smith