Wednesday 9 March 2016

Glamour Magazines First Black Cover Model

Influential Magazine Cover: Glamour Magazines first black cover model


In 1968 Glamour Magazine launched its first cover featuring a black model. 18 year old Katiti Kironde had entered a competition for the 'Top Ten Best Dressed College Girls' with which she won and later became the first black woman on the cover of the 30 year old publication. This was a huge success, selling 2 million copies all over the world and turned out to be the publications best selling issue to date.

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1968 Issue of Glamour Magazine featuring Katiti Kironde
The first ever woman on the cover of British vogue however was Donyale Luna in 1966.
This made a statement giving other magazines inspiration and the freedom to have models of different races. Since then other magazines published covers similar and now it is perfectly normal to have a diverse range of people on the front covers of popular magazines. The exposure of such a big magazine made an impact as people all around the world saw the difference in tradition. 
Donyale Luna on the cover of British Vogue in 1966


References 

The Huffington Post. (2016). Glamour's First Black Cover Model!. [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/01/katiti-kironde-glamour-magazine-first-black-cover-model_n_2597505.html [Accessed 14 Mar. 2016].

I.huffpost.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://i.huffpost.com/gen/969396/thumbs/o-KATITI-KIRONDE-570.jpg?6 [Accessed 14 Mar. 2016].

Slantnews.com. (2016). [online] Available at: https://www.slantnews.com/story/2015-08-13-9-women-of-color-who-went-vogue-before-beyonce [Accessed 14 Mar. 2016].

Cdn.slantnews.com. (2016). [online] Available at: https://cdn.slantnews.com/articles/fd32d2e0-41e9-11e5-908a-0193dca05497/fd32d2e1-41e9-11e5-908a-0193dca05497/thumb_f64f6b50-41ee-11e5-9d45-2916713ca3fb_w500.jpg [Accessed 14 Mar. 2016].

First Transgender Person on the cover of Time Magazine





Influential Covers: Time Magazine

In 2014 Laverne Cox was the first transgender person on the cover of Time Magazine. The cover was entitled 'The Transgender Tipping Point'. The magazine came under scrutiny as Laverne wasn't featured in Times 100 list. It was said that the media constantly disregards the hard work of the LGBT community, more so Transgender people. The controversy resulted in #Whereislavernecox being a trending topic on twitter. It was also suggested that she was not featured in Times list not just because she is transgender but also because of her colour and race. There is still much speculation around Americas acceptance of Trans people and Laverne wanted to address this. She wanted to speak out about these issues so other people in the same situation were not afraid to come forward and be who they are. Since then other magazines have featured Trans people.


Laverne Cox on the cover of Time Magazine in 2014
Vanity fair recently released an issue with Caitlyn Jenner on the cover which also addresses these issues. I chose these covers as I think they are especially iconic for our generation as before now, Transgender people were not taken seriously and it shows the progress being made into becoming a more accepting society. Its important that magazines feature a diverse range of people for their covers and since they have a wide audience it is also crucial that they are fair and are not prejudice.
Vanity Fair cover featuring Caitlyn Jenner

References 

Images.huffingtonpost.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2015-05-08-1431063643-3329506-TimeforHuffPo.jpg [Accessed 13 Mar. 2016].
Ajhcosmetics.co.uk. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.ajhcosmetics.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/caitlyn.jpg [Accessed 13 Mar. 2016].
Steinmetz, K. (2014). 
TIME Cover Story: Interview With Trans Icon Laverne Cox. [online] TIME.com. Available at: http://time.com/132769/transgender-orange-is-the-new-black-laverne-cox-interview/ [Accessed 13 Mar. 2016].

Thursday 3 March 2016

Avante Garde looks with Gold Leaf and Glitter

Makeup: Glitter and Gold Leaf

Our lesson this week was definitely one of the most inspiring! We had to get creative with different sizes of glitter, gold leaf and grease paints. Like usual we started off with a demo which gave us ideas as to how we could use our imagination to create new looks.

Branka (our lecturer) started off by cleansing the face and using oil to hydrate the skin. The foundation was then applied to the skin and MAC's Full Coverage Foundation was buffed into the skin for a flawless base. The base wasn't set straight away as glitter will be used later and the any touch ups to the base can be added easily. The brows were defined with Anastasia Dipbrow in Black. MAC's 'Cranberry' Eye Shadow was applied to the lid all the way up to the brow and blended in a winged shape on the outer corner of the eye. Gold Supracolor is dabbed on the center of the lid and blended out with the fingers. Using the same finger which has product on from blending, This was dipped in chunky glitter and pressed onto the center of the lid on top of the gold supracolor. A small cut glitter was also dabbed on top of the same area. The small glitter must go on second as if it is pressed on first it is more dense and will cover all the grease paint leaving no space for the bigger glitter to stick to.

The excess glitter is dusted off the cheeks and under eyes. More foundation is used to build up the coverage. Mascara is combed through the lashes. Silver Dusk Highlighter is brushed all over the face to give it radiance. The lips are liner with a black pencil liner and Collection 2000's 'Goth Glam' Lipstick is applied which is a deep purple tone. The skin is contoured lightly with MUA's Contour Stick in 'Light'. MAC'x Fix Plus is spritzed on the face as this will give the gold leaf something to stick to. Gold leaf is tearing up in tiny pieces and applied to the eyelid. Supracolor is then applied with the fingers on streaks along the jaw, cheekbones, forehead and down the nose. Gold disc Sequins are then dabbed on top of the Supracolor on the cheek bones, nose, above eyebrow and center of the bottom lip.

Branka then folded up a piece of paper and tipped small glitter into the fold. Opening the paper slightly she blew on the glitter to it would cover areas of the face. This was simply beautiful to watch. Once the face had a coating of glitter, Black liner was added to dot the lower lash line and add a line going from the inner corner of the brow down the nose.

This was the final image:

MUA: Branka Vorkapic
Model: Jess Henry


Products

MAC Full Coverage Foundation
MAC Fix Plus
Gold Leaf
Gold Disc Sequins
Chunky Gold Glitter
Small Cut Gold Glitter
Anastasia Dipbrow in Black
MAC Black Pencil Liner
MAC Silver Dusk Highlighter
Kryolan Gold Supracolor Grease Paint
Collection 2000 Lipstick in 'Goth Glam'
MAC Eye Shadow in 'Cranberry'
Mascara
MUA Contour Stick in 'Light'
Black Liquid Liner





It was now my time to create a design. I had an idea in mind but changed it last minute due to not having the right colours and products at hand. I started off by Applying the base, I used MAC's Full Coverage Foundation as this photographs well and covers redness well due to the thick consistency so concealer wasn't necessary. I decided to contour the face so using the Kryolan Supracolor Palette I mixed up a shade and applied it to the cheekbones, temples and jawline. This was then buffed into the base. I then lightly set the base with translucent powder. MAC Eye Shadows in 'Brun' and 'Omega' were used to fill in any gaps in the brows and to give them a bit more of a solid shape. Brow Gel was used to keep the hairs in place.

I then used 'Rule' Eye shadow by MAC over the lid and buffed this into the crease of the eye. 'Brun' was added to the crease and was used to elongate the eye by being blended into a slight wing at the outer corner of the eye. 'Amber Lights' was taken down below the lower lash line and blended around the lower eye area. To make the transition smoother from copper toned shadow to skin I used 'Goldmine' which is a soft gold shimmer around the edges of where I used 'Amber lights' 'Brun is then taken on the lower lash line. 'Goldmine' Is dusted on the inner corner. Mascara is swept through the lashes with a fan brush. I took small pieces of gold leaf and stuck these to the inner corner using Vaseline. I then used Vaseline again on the under eye area and dabbed glitter on top creating streaks of glitter. 

I then used the 'Cyber' Lipstick on the lips to darken this look and dabbed 'Amber lights' on the center. MAC Lipglass was added on top to give shine and blend the shadow into the lipstick. 


Here is my final outcome:

Glitter and Gold Leaf Look
MUA: Chelsey Pavey



Final Outcome
MUA: Chelsey Pavey


Products 

MAC Full Coverage Foundation
Translucent Powder
Mascara
MAC Eye Shadows in :
'Brun'
'Omega'
'Rule'
'Goldmine'
'Amber Lights'

MAC Lipstick in 'Cyber'

Kryolan Supracolor Palette
Chunky Gold Glitter
Vaseline
Gold Leaf


Evaluation



What Went Well:

I had to adapt my idea and change it to suit the colour theme change.  I wanted the makeup to look like the model was almost crying glitter but I don't think I quite achieve this. The outcome was still presentable but I think with more planning for my idea would have been a lot better. I like the new use of colours although I'm not overly keen on the lip shade but I wanted something dark to add contrast to the overall look. The colour scheme worked with the models hair colour so I was happy with this.


What I Could Improve:

I don't think this is the best makeup I have done but I am happy with how I created something quickly. I also think I could've done something a bit prettier and used the gold leaf in a more creative way but I think this is due to me changing my idea last minute. I also found the gold leaf very hard to apply as it tends to stick to my fingers, I think next time I should apply it with a spatula or another tool just to see if this helps. I want to buy some gold leaf to continue practicing with it and using it in different ways as I think it looks very effective.




Hair Caging

Hair: Hair Caging

Our lesson today was on how to create shapes in the hair with caging material such as mesh.
Emma used our tutorial to create a bow with her hair mesh which was very effective and pretty. I didn't want to do the same as I wanted to try something different.


I originally wanted to create a heart shape in the hair so I started off by putting the hair in a ponytail. I then folded a strip of mesh in half to make it thinner and stronger. I bent it into the shape of a heart and placed a clip to secure its shape. This was pinned to the base of the ponytail and I used hair weft to clip around it. Unfortunately I didn't like the outcome so I changed my idea to two circles. The weight of the hair made it hard for the heart shape to stay in place and it looked more like circles anyway so I worked with this idea. The hair weft and the hair from the ponytail was wrapped around the mesh and pinned in. The remaining piece from the ponytail was plaited in a fishtail braid and pinned in between the circles.

Here is my final outcome:


Hair Caging Practice by Chelsey Pavey



Products and Tools 

Hair Grips 
Tail Comb
Mesh for Caging
Hair Spray 
Small Hair Bands
Hair Brush 


Evaluation 



What Went Well:

I think my idea for the heart shape would have looked really well if I executed it successfully. I'm glad I managed to adapt my design when it wasn't going right the first time as this gave practice at adjusting something to get a better result. My second attempt was a lot better than the first so I felt I made progress in this lesson but I still have a lot of work to do to master this skill. 

What I Could Improve On:

I found this lesson very challenging as its not something I am familiar with. I struggled with my first idea and changed it in the end but I was still a bit gutted with the final outcome as it looks messy. This is definitely something I need to work on as I don't feel very confident with this. I struggle to be creative with hairstyles as I don't quite feel as comfortable with hair as I do makeup. I know that any practice with hair will get me used to working with it and I will be able to manipulate it into the position I want it to be.